interview Giampaolo Alliata

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Age : 53

Origine: Né à Milan, mais avec des origines Siciliennes.

Études et activité: Jusqu’en 4ème/3ème (niveau BEPC). Puis j’ai commencé à travailler.

Pourquoi avez-vous choisi ce métier? Mon père était représentant pour les maisons: CanaliKitonIsaia, etc. Il m’a enseigné le goût des beaux vêtements et, par la suite, j’ai travaillé avec lui. Après un an, il m’a envoyé dans une boutique à Miami qui vendait uniquement de la confection Italienne: KitonBrioniIsaia, etc.

Comment y êtes-vous arrivé? J’ai commencé comme stock-man et ensuite, après avoir appris la langue, en boutique en tant que vendeur. Après un an aux USA, j’ai dû rentrer en Italie car mon Père eut sa première attaque cardiaque. Je rentrai donc pour lui donner un coup de main. J’étais alors représentant pour Isaia et plus tard responsable du choix des tissus et bench pour les USA. Après deux divorces, il y a 11 ans, Lino Leluzzi me demanda de travailler avec lui.

Selon vous, c’est quoi un bon vêtement? Il ne doit pas être forcement confectionné en sur-mesure. Nonobstant, il doit être absolument soigné et dans un tissu de qualité, avec quelques détails faits main!

Êtes-vous sur-mesure ou prêt-à-porter? Prêt-à-porter comme dit en haut.

Cravate ou pas? Toujours au travail et pour les occasions importantes; après le repas, avec les amis… on peut même l’enlever. En particulier l’été.

Le nœud de cravate est-il important pour vous? Beaucoup! Il doit être bien noué et accroché au cou.

Tenue préférée? Cela dépend de mon réveil.

Celle que vous détestez? Trop Fashion !

Revers de pantalon (combien de cm) ou pas? Oui de 5 cm pour le classique… Par moment, sur le sport. Cela dépend du pantalon.

Votre couleur préférée? Les tons bleus.

Ce que vous ne portez jamais? Le noir.

Quel type de souliers? Classiques à double boucles ou richelieus avec les brogues. 

Noires ou marrons? Marrons avec des graduations de marrons.

Chaussettes hautes ou basses? Toujours et seulement hautes!

Qu’est-ce que cela signifie pour vous le style?  Rajouter au classique quelque chose d’excentrique dans les accessoires sans jamais trop exagérer; le style fait partie (aussi) surtout d’une bonne éducation en se sentant à l’aise en toutes circonstances!

Votre “icône de style”? Mon Père.

Votre montre, mécanique ou à quartz? Mécanique.

Votre eau de toilette? Une goutte de Black Afghan en Automne/Hiver. La même chose avec Eau Sauvage le Printemps/Été.

Caleçon ou Slip? Boxer de coton.

Combien de temps vous faut-il pour vous préparer le matin? 25 minutes.

Pliez-vous votre pantalon avant d’aller vous coucher? Toujours.

Voiture ou moto de vos rêves? La (machine) voiture à remonter le temps.

Foot ou rugby? Le foot est en train de m’ennuyer… Trop d’intérêts économiques et peu de sportivité. Je me rapproche du rugby!

Dernière escapade? Japon, il y a quatre ans.

Menu idéal? Spaghettis, ail, huile et piment (pas quand je travaille!).

Bordeaux ou Bourgogne (Chianti, Nero d’Avola?)? Arneis l’été et Chianti ou Merlot l’hiver.

Design: contemporain ou Louis XV? Les deux.

Blonde ou brune? Je n’ai pas de préférences de ce type.

A quoi êtes-vous fidèle? A moi-même.

Ce que vous préférez chez une femme? Une femme qui ait de la conversation, une amoureuse exemplaire.

Qui inviteriez-vous au dîner de vos rêves? Ma femme et mes enfants.

Un film culte? Il était une fois en Amérique.

Le livre sur votre table de chevet? Il Cardellino (Donna Tartt) tout juste fini de lire, mais j’aime également Italo Calvino. Ou sinon les romans plus légers tels que ceux d’espionnage.

La musique sur votre I-Pod? MinaBarry WhitePrinceAmy Whinehouse

Que changeriez-vous de vous-même? Physiquement, plus mince, intellectuellement, plus cultivé. J’y travaille! 😉

Le luxe absolu? La liberté de gérer mon temps.

Merci!

C.G.

Al Bazar Milano, Via A.Scarpa, 9 – 20145 Milano (Italy) 

Età: 53

Origine: Nato a Milano, ma origini Siciliane.

Studi & Attività: Solo terza media. Poi ho incominciato a lavorare.

Perché aver scelto questo mestiere? Mio padre, rappresentante di: Canali, Kiton, Isaia ecc. Mi ha educato al bel vestire, e dopo un anno che ho lavorato con lui, mi ha mandato a lavorare in un negozio di Miami che vendeva solo prodotti Italiani: Kiton, Brioni, Isaia, ecc.

Come ci sei arrivato? Ho iniziato come magazziniere e dopo aver appreso la lingua… In negozio come commesso. Poi dopo un anno mio padre fu colto dal primo infarto, quindi tornai a dargli una mano come rappresentante Isaia e più tardi come responsabile scelta tessuti e campionario per USA. Dopo due divorzi, 11 anni fa Lino Ieluzzi mi chiese di lavorare con lui.

Cos’è per te un vestito fatto bene? Non deve essere per forza fatto su misura. Pertanto, deve essere assolutamente curato nella qualità del tessuto e con alcune lavorazioni fatte a mano!

Sei piuttosto su misura o prêt-à-porter? Prêt-à-porter come ho detto sopra.

Cravatta o no? Sempre sul lavoro e nelle occasioni importanti, dopo cena con amici… Si può anche togliere specie in estate.

Per te è importante il nodo della cravatta? Molto! Deve essere ben annodato e attaccato al collo.

Outfit preferito? Dipende da come mi sveglio.

Quello che odi di più? Troppo Fashion.

Risvolto del pantalone (quanti cm) o no ? Si 5 cm nel classico… A volte, nello sportivo. Dipende dal pantalone.

Il tuo colore preferito? Nei toni blu.

Quello che non porti mai? Nero.

Che scarpe? Classiche a doppia fibbia o stringate con brogue.

Nere o Marroni? Marroni o graduazioni del marrone.

Calze alte o basse? Sempre e solo alte!

Cos’é per te avere stile? Aggiungere al classico, qualcosa di eccentrico negli accessori senza mai esagerare. Lo stile fa parte (anche) soprattutto di una buona educazione e sentirsi a proprio agio in qualsiasi situazione!

Il tuo “Style Icon”? Mio padre.

Il tuo orologio, meccanico o quartz? Meccanico.

Il tuo profumo? Una goccia di Black Afgano in Autunno/Inverno. Lo stesso di Eau Sauvage in Primavera/Estate.

Slip o Boxer? Boxer di maglina.

Quanto tempo ci metti a prepararti il mattino ? 25 min circa.

Pieghi il tuo pantalone prima di andare a dormire? Sempre.

La macchina dei tuoi sogni? La macchina del tempo.

Calcio o Rugby? Il calcio mi sta stufando… Troppi interessi economici e poca sportività. Mi avvicinerò al rugby!

Ultimo viaggio? Giappone 4 anni fa.

Menu ideale? Spaghetti aglio olio e peperoncino (Non quando devo lavorare!).

Bordeaux o Bourgogne (Chianti, Nero d’Avola ?) ? Arneis d’estate e Chianti o Merlot d’inverno.

Design: contemporaneo o Luigi XV? Entrambi.

Bionda o Bruna? Non ho preferenze di questo tipo.

A che cosa sei fedele ? A me stesso.

La qualità preferita di una donna? Una buona conversatrice, un’ottima amante.

Con chi vorresti fare la cena dei tuoi sogni ? Con mia moglie e i miei figli.

Un film culto? C’era una volta in America.

Il libro sul tuo comodino? Il Cardellino (Donna Tartt) appena finito, ma amo anche Italo Calvino. Oppure i romanzi più leggeri di spionaggio.

La musica nel tuo I-Pod? Mina, Barry White, Prince, Amy Whinehouse…

Quello che vorresti cambiare di te stesso? Fisicamente… Più magro, intellettualmente più colto. Mi sto dando da fare! 😉

Il lusso assoluto? Libertà di gestire il mio tempo.

Grazie!

G.C.

Al Bazar Milano, Via A.Scarpa, 9 – 20145 Milano (Italy) 

interview Ignatious Joseph, Ign. Joseph

Ignatious Joseph copie

 

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IGN . Joseph

Origin: I was born in British Sri Lanka and grew independent with it.

Studies and occupation: I attended preparatory school in Sri Lanka and then studied business administration in Germany and Switzerland. After several years as a manager in the international hospitality sector, I founded my shirt company IGN.Joseph.

Why did you choose this profession? I left hostelry and catering to satisfy my passion for fine apparel and to appeal to the clientele I had served in the international hotel business.

How did you get there? By driving (and occasionally flying) thousands of miles.

According to you, what is a good shirt? Fine fabric, robust stitching and spirit: A good shirt must move like the skin of the person wearing it. It is not to be confused with body armour.

Tailor-made or “prêt-à-porter”? There are poor tailors and excellent manufacturers. If one does not have a very peculiar size or body form, bespoke is unnecessary. The advantage of bespoke clothing depends on the artisan as well as the materials (fabrics) at his or her disposal. Unfortunately the artisan sector is disappearing. This is still where the craft gets its impulses. The “innovations” in prêt-à-porter are mainly commercial, manufacturing and distribution processes as well as sourcing. However no one should aspire to be dressed like a balance sheet.

Tie or not? There are many occasions when a tie is obligatory and then the issue is moot. Neckwear was once a practical and not merely ornamental part of dress. On weekends I do not wear a tie. But when I wear one it has to be good. A serious element of style is what I call “effortless elegance”. Weekdays the London Underground is full of young men travelling to work with noose-like silken or polyester cords around their necks. Ties are not for hanging.

Is the tie knot important to you? It is important that neckwear be tied properly so as not to damage the fabric. The knot itself ought to fit the collar of the shirt being worn.

What is your favorite outfit? Of course I like my own choice of suiting my tailor has made and admire some of the great classic lines.

And the one you dislike the most? Although I realise it is de rigeur for many in the traditional professions, I have never been keen on pinstripes. However, I absolutely abhor “battlefield casual”, the prevalent fashion among many who have never held a weapon or fired a shot in anger. Boys can be excused for playing GI Joe but such tastelessness in grown men is only secondary to the unfortunate realities that give rise to this fashion in the first place.

Trouser’s cuffs (how many cm) or not? Of course cuffs, but not up to the calf or knee. There has been a truly horrid craze for variations of battlefield dress among those who have stretched the definition of acceptable “business casual” beyond recognition. There is no reason to be dogmatic about this detail. Proper trouser length is more important, down to the bottom of the heel cap and slightly creased at about the third pair of lacing holes.

What is your favorite color? I think if one discounts my red shoes, I am very traditional—different shades of blue appeal to me.

Which color do you never wear? Gaudy colours.

 What kind of shoes do you like? The classic forms, Derby, Oxford, Brogues, welted and made of high quality leather by professional artisans.

Black or brown? I cannot speak for others but this question makes no sense to me—I only wear red.

Socks: high or low? Stockings, that is to say hosiery that covers the calf, not only makes a better appearance for the entire leg, it offers warmth and support make walking less tiring. Many men make the mistake of confusing scantiness with leisure attire. Clothing has functions that are often ignored by people in their search for gratuitous novelty.

What this means to you style? Even the minimally decorative Bauhaus school applies to good clothing—style follows function.

What is your « style’s icon »? Do I need one?

Watch: mechanical or quartz? I am not into esoterica. Every once in a while I have to wind my watch.

What is your perfume? A sharp spice with a softening whiff of citrus.

How long do you take to get ready in the morning? Everything one has practiced well can be done more quickly than by someone who has no routine. When I have to travel, it is possible to by stylish swiftly. At the weekends, I leave my wristwatch on the bedstand.

Do you fold up your pants before you go to bed? I take proper care of my attire so that it can be worn the next day, esp. when travelling—what more is there to say.

What is the car or motorbike of your dreams? I drive thousands of kilometers annually and so I am rather keen on fast cars. Probably if I had nothing else to transport I would go for a Mercedes 300 SL, with all the trimmings so to speak. Ferrari makes a fine car but it is really too much work. Mercedes-Benz has always made fine, fast cars that are a bit more reliable and durable with less maintenance. I am a motorist but not a mechanic…

Are you more football or rugby? My first passion is cricket. Of course on the continent it is played very little, so I do follow a bit of football.

Where was your last getaway? I took some time to relax in Northern Italy returning from the Pitti Uomo.

What is the perfect menu according to you? Of course as a child of Southern Asia I come from a part of the world with incredibly rich culinary traditions. However, Italy is my second home and in Europe, my first when it comes to food.

Wine: Bordeaux or Burgundy (Chianti, Nero d’Avola?)? In Sri Lanka where I was born, we have the best teas in the world. The liquor of an exquisite Ceylon blend is quite sufficient.

Design: Contemporary or Louis XV? The fewer clichés the better.

Women: Blonde or brunette? I certainly hope that brains and charm are evenly distributed without regard to hair colour.

To what are you faithful? My craft and aesthetic sensibility—which also means self-respect and respect for the humanity of others.

What do you prefer in a woman? Discretion is a quality to be observed by persons of both genders.

Who would you invite to your dream dinner? I don’t dream when I dine. It is a shame to waste good food.

Which movie is, according to you, a cult film? In a limited sense I can say there are films which are exemplary for gentlemen’s style in a particular era. Noticeably there are no such films for past decades. The “cult” films all reminisce about the style of the past—people like to call it “retro” these days. Of course there are films that have been given “cult” status—mainly extremely violent films—that makes me wonder what people really mean when they say “cult”?

Which book lies on your nightstand? Gibbon’s Rise and Fall of the Roman Empire.

What kind of music do you have on your IPod? You know, I grew up when there was only one radio device in the whole house. We heard everything together in the living room. When I drive I concentrate on the road. Of course I listen to the news. It is important for me to be aware of what happens in our world and the topics that move my clients.

What would you change about yourself? Sometimes I think I would resign myself to the decline in good taste and stop talking about it. However, I just cannot bear indifference.

What is, according to you, the absolute luxury? Serenity and the confidence that money is the least important aspect of life, not only to say that but to actually feel and live that way.

Thanks!

G.C.

ign-joseph.com

interview Lino Ieluzzi, Al Bazar Milano

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Origine: Né à Milan mais originaire des Pouilles.

Études et activité: Entrepreneur chez Al Bazar Milano.

Pourquoi avez-vous choisi ce métier? Par passion.

Comment y êtes-vous arrivé? Toujours par passion pour le style.

Selon vous, c’est quoi un bon vêtement? Il faut que ça soit absolument un vêtement sartorial.

Êtes-vous sur-mesure ou prêt-à-porter? Sur-Mesure.

Cravate ou pas? Tout dépend de la tenue. Toujours avec le costume!

Le nœud de cravate est-il important pour vous? Oui.

Tenue préférée? Dépareillée.

Celle que vous détestez? Le noir.

Revers de pantalon (combien de cm) ou pas? 5 cm. Sans pour les pantalons sport.

Votre couleur préférée? Bleu ciel.

Ce que vous ne portez jamais? Montres quartz.

Quel type de souliers? Doubles boucles.

Noires ou marrons? Marrons.

Chaussettes hautes ou basses? Hautes.

Qu’est-ce que cela signifie pour vous le style? Le style ne fait pas partrie de la mode, c’est quelque chose que nous avons tous intérieurement

Votre “icône de style”? L’Avvocato Gianni Agnelli.

Votre montre, mécanique ou à quartz? Mécanique.

Votre eau de toilette? Je ne porte pas de parfum.

Caleçon ou Slip? Boxer.

Combien de temps vous faut-il pour vous préparer le matin? Une demi-heure.

Pliez-vous votre pantalon avant d’aller vous coucher? Oui.

Voiture ou moto de vos rêves? Porsche.

Foot ou rugby? Foot.

Dernière escapade? En Corée.

Menu ideal? Spaghettis sauce tomate et basilic.

Bordeaux ou Bourgogne (Chianti, Nero d’Avola?)? Bordeaux.

Design: contemporain ou Louis XV? Contemporain.

Blonde ou brune? Brune.

A quoi êtes-vous fidèle? À moi-même.

Ce que vous préférez chez une femme? La douceur.

Qui inviteriez-vous au dîner de vos rêves? Anna Mouglalis.

Un film culte? Le Parrain.

Le livre sur votre table de chevet? Je suis entrain de relire « Le Petit Prince ».

La musique sur votre IPod? Sinatra.

Que changeriez-vous de vous-même? Presque rien, défauts et qualités font désormais partie de moi.

Le luxe absolu? Le temps.

Merci!

C.G.

Al Bazar Milano, Via A.Scarpa, 9 – 20145 Milano (Italy)

Origine: Nato a Milano/ Origini Pugliesi.

Studi & Attività: imprenditore.

Perché aver scelto questo mestiere? Per passione.

Come ci sei arrivato? Sempre per la mia passione per lo stile.

Cos’è per te un vestito fatto bene? Deve essere assolutamente un vestito sartoriale.

Sei piuttosto su misura o prêt-à-porter? Su misura.

Cravatta o no? Dipende. Con l’abito assolutamente.

Per te è importante il nodo della cravatta? Si.

Outfit preferito? Spezzato.

Quello che odi di più? Il nero.

Risvolto del pantalone (quanti cm) o no? 5 cm. Sportivi senza.

Il tuo colore preferito? Azzurro.

Quello che non porti mai? Un orologio al quarzo.

Che scarpe? Doppia fibbia.

Nere o Marroni? Marroni.

Calze alte o basse? Alte.

Cos’é per te avere stile? Lo stile non fa parte della moda, è qualche cosa che noi tutti abbiamo dentro.

Il tuo “Style Icon”? Avv. Gianni Agnelli.

Il tuo orologio, meccanico o quartz? Meccanico.

Il tuo profumo? Non uso profumo.

Slip o Boxer? Boxer.

Quanto tempo ci metti a prepararti il mattino? 30 minuti.

Pieghi il tuo pantalone prima di andare a dormire? Si.

La macchina dei tuoi sogni? Porsche.

Calcio o Rugby? Calcio.

Ultimo viaggio? Corea.

Menu ideale? Spaghetti pomodoro e basilico.

Bordeaux o Bourgogne (Chianti, Nero d’Avola ?) ? Bordeaux.

Design: contemporaneo o Luigi XV ? Contemporaneo.

Bionda o Bruna? Bruna.

A che cose sei fedele? A me stesso.

La qualità preferita di una donna? Dolcezza.

Con chi vorresti fare la cena dei tuoi sogni? Anna Mouglalis.

Un film culto? Il Padrino.

Il libro sul tuo comodino? Sto rileggendo “il Piccolo Principe”.

La musica nel tuo I-Pod? Sinatra.

Quello che vorresti cambiare di te stesso? Quasi nulla, pregi e difetti fanno ormai parte di me.

Il lusso assoluto? Il tempo.

Grazie!

G.C.

Al Bazar Milano, Via A.Scarpa, 9 – 20145 Milano (Italy)